Quick Guide to Climbing Grading Systems
Climbing Grade Systems are a measurement system for the climbing routes or problems, so we can know in a standardised magnitude the difficulty of a climb.
But standardising something so subjective is hard, creates controversy and different grading systems coexist, so it’s a bit (or very) messy at the moment. You will find some gyms use one system, some others, and some they use their own colour system without direct translation to any of the “official” ones!
In our ClimbGenius app you’ll find a way to add your own custom grade systems, so as you record your climbing sessions the app will show your grade colours and not some vague number. But if you want to use the “official” grade systems, you can too!
The most important thing to know about grading systems is that you should use them as a guide to know the difficulty, but that they are subjective. Because different body types have different strengths and weaknesses, you will find some climbs in lower grades more difficult than others in higher grades, and the opposite as well. Definitely you should try climbs on harder grades, and shouldn’t get frustrated because some climb resists being sent but it’s on an “easy” grade!
Here are some of the “official” grading systems and a brief explanation:
Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
This is the most commonly used climbing grade system in North America, and it is used for traditional climbing, which involves placing protection (such as cams or nuts) in cracks in the rock as the climber ascends. The YDS uses a numerical system from 5.0 (easiest) to 5.15 (hardest), with each level subdivided into decimal points for greater specificity.
V Scale
This is the grading system used for bouldering, which involves climbing shorter, more intense routes without the use of ropes. The V Scale ranges from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest).
French Sport Climbing System
This system is used primarily in Europe and other parts of the world for sport climbing, which involves climbing with pre-placed bolts for protection. The French Sport Climbing System uses a numerical system from 1 (easiest) to 9c+ (hardest).
British Trad Climbing System
This is the grading system mostly used in the UK for traditional climbing, and it ranges from Diff (easiest) to E11 (hardest).