Jorge Díaz-Rullo's Stellar Start in 2024: Triumphs in Santa Linya's Most Challenging Climbs
In the first few days of January 2024, Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo showcased his exceptional climbing skills by conquering three challenging routes in Santa Linya, Spain. His achievements include successfully climbing Catxasa at the renowned Cova Gran crag, Open Your Mind, and its harder-start variant, Open Your Mind Direct.
In the first few days of January 2024, Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo showcased his exceptional climbing skills by conquering three challenging routes in Santa Linya, Spain. His achievements include successfully climbing Catxasa at the renowned Cova Gran crag, Open Your Mind, and its harder-start variant, Open Your Mind Direct.
Catxasa: A Test of Skill and Perseverance
Díaz-Rullo's journey began on New Year's Day with his ascent of Catxasa, a route initially rated at 5.15a. Due to the use of a kneepad, the difficulty was debated, with recent climbers suggesting a 5.14d/15a rating. Díaz-Rullo, respecting previous climbers, chose the latter rating, though he personally found it aligned with the original 5.15a. He dedicated five days to mastering this line before achieving success.
Open Your Mind: A Unique Challenge
His next achievement was on January 3 with Open Your Mind, graded 5.14c. Although it wasn't a strict flash, as Díaz-Rullo had previously climbed the initial 5.13a section shared with another route, he felt it was a personal flash. Open Your Mind, established by Dani Andrada in 2008, is a celebrated route in the climbing community.
Open Your Mind Direct: Raising the Bar
The following day, Díaz-Rullo tackled Open Your Mind Direct, a more demanding version of the route, graded at 5.14d. This route has attracted some of the world's top climbers, including Magnus Midtbø, Jakob Schubert, Daniel Woods, and Jonathan Siegrist, making Díaz-Rullo's successful redpoint a significant achievement.
A Remarkable Year in Climbing
2023 was a landmark year for Díaz-Rullo. He accomplished his first-ever 5.15c with the first ascent of Mejorando la Samfaina in Margalef. He followed this with a repeat of Alex Megos' The Full Journey (5.15b) and later, another 5.15c, Bibliographie in Céü.
Solidifying his status as a leading figure in the climbing world.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo's accomplishments in early 2024, particularly in Santa Linya, are a testament to his climbing prowess. Starting the year with such remarkable achievements, he continues to push the boundaries of the sport, inspiring climbers worldwide. His ability to tackle varied and challenging routes demonstrates not only his physical skill but also his strategic planning and dedication to climbing.
Pete Whittaker Conquers Crown Royale, the World's Most Challenging Crack
Pete Whittaker has once again pushed the boundaries of the sport by successfully conquering Crown Royale, a treacherous 5.14d crack route located in Utah's Indian Creek.
Pete Whittaker has once again pushed the boundaries of the sport by successfully conquering Crown Royale, a treacherous 5.14d crack route located in Utah's Indian Creek.
This remarkable achievement cements Whittaker's status as one of the world's leading crack climbers. Crown Royale has long been regarded as one of the most difficult crack climbs in the world, with its intricate and demanding cracks requiring extreme finger strength and precise technique. It had remained unclimbed for years, challenging many experienced climbers who attempted to tackle its challenging routes. Whittaker had been eyeing Crown Royale for quite some time and had meticulously prepared for the ascent. He had spent countless hours training, honing his crack climbing skills, and analyzing the route's intricate cracks to develop a strategy.
On the day of the ascent, Whittaker was accompanied by a small team of fellow climbers who provided support and captured the historic moment on film. The energy at the base of the route was palpable as Whittaker began his arduous climb, maneuvering himself up the complex cracks with incredible precision and strength. The ascent wasn't without its challenges. Whittaker encountered several difficult sections that required him to perform intricate moves and maintain immense focus. But with each passing obstacle, he displayed unwavering determination and resilience. After hours of relentless effort, Whittaker reached the pinnacle of Crown Royale, completing a truly groundbreaking ascent. His success is a testament to his unwavering dedication to climbing and his exceptional talent in crack climbing. Whittaker's accomplishment has reverberated throughout the climbing community, sparking conversations and admiration among climbers worldwide.
His ascent of Crown Royale has set a new benchmark for crack climbing, inspiring others to push their own limits and strive for greatness. In an interview following his triumphant climb, Whittaker expressed his exhilaration and satisfaction, calling Crown Royale the "hardest challenge of his climbing career." He also credited his supportive team for their assistance throughout the process. As Whittaker's name joins the ranks of other legendary climbers, his incredible achievement serves as a testament to the ever-evolving nature of rock climbing and the limitless possibilities for those who dare to dream big.
Anak Verhoeven Conquers Challenging 5.13d Roof Crack
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven recently achieved an impressive feat by climbing a challenging 5.13d roof crack called La Fuerza de la Gravedad (translates to Gravity’s Force from Spanish).
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven recently achieved an impressive feat by climbing a challenging 5.13d roof crack called La Fuerza de la Gravedad (translates to Gravity’s Force from Spanish).
The climb took place in an undisclosed location, showcasing Verhoeven's skill and determination. The 5.13d rating indicates a difficulty level that pushes climbers to their limits, requiring outstanding strength, endurance, and technique.
Verhoeven's ascent of the roof crack is a testament to her commitment and dedication to the sport of climbing. The climb itself presented significant challenges, with the roof adding an additional layer of complexity. Roof cracks are known for their steepness and demanding technique, making them particularly daunting for climbers. While details about the specific location are limited, the achievement itself has garnered attention within the climbing community. Verhoeven's successful ascent serves as inspiration for climbers around the world, showcasing the possibilities and achievements that can be reached through hard work and perseverance.
Ondra’s new film, the Struggles of chasing the limits
Renowned climber Adam Ondra's latest film sheds light on the hidden challenges that come with greatness. The recently revealed documentary dives into the darker aspects of Ondra's journey towards becoming one of the world's greatest climbers.
Renowned climber Adam Ondra's latest film sheds light on the hidden challenges that come with greatness. The recently revealed documentary dives into the darker aspects of Ondra's journey towards becoming one of the world's greatest climbers.
The film highlights the immense pressure, sacrifices, and mental struggles that Ondra faced throughout his career. The documentary, titled "Adam Ondra: Pushing the Limits," offers an intimate look into Ondra's life both on and off the rocks.
Through a series of interviews, compelling footage, and personal anecdotes, the film captures the highs and lows of Ondra's pursuit of climbing excellence. One of the central themes explored in the documentary is the immense burden of expectations placed upon Ondra. As one of the most accomplished climbers in history, Ondra constantly faced the pressure to perform at his best and surpass his own previous achievements.
The film delves into the toll this pressure took on his mental and emotional well-being. Additionally, the documentary delves into the personal sacrifices Ondra made in his quest for greatness. It showcases the rigorous training regimens, the grueling travel schedules, and the time spent away from loved ones that Ondra endured to push his limits on the rock. "Adam Ondra: Pushing the Limits
" also addresses the mental challenges that Ondra encountered throughout his career.
From self-doubt and fear of failure to dealing with the expectations of the climbing community, the film presents a raw and honest portrayal of Ondra's mental journey.
Overall, Adam Ondra's new film offers a thought-provoking exploration of the sacrifices, pressures, and mental struggles that often accompany greatness in the world of climbing. It provides a valuable insight into the human side of an extraordinary athlete and inspires viewers to consider the untold stories behind their idols.
Honnold and Caldwell Conquer Iconic Yosemite 5.13b Route Once Again
Renowned climbers Honnold and Caldwell successfully complete repeat free climb on Yosemite's challenging 5.13b route called The Heart Route in Yosemite National Park. The first time someone did the ascent was In 2015, the late Brad Gobright and Mason Earle.
Renowned climbers Honnold and Caldwell successfully complete repeat free climb on Yosemite's challenging 5.13b route called The Heart Route in Yosemite National Park. The first time someone did the ascent was In 2015, the late Brad Gobright and Mason Earle.
Honnold and Caldwell have been climbing together for years, and they both appear on Honnold’s movie Free solo.
The chosen route, which was first climbed in 1970, has long been regarded as a benchmark for difficulty and technicality. Its steep, overhanging sections, demanding sequences, and small, hard-to-hold features make it a daunting challenge for even the most experienced climbers. Honnold and Caldwell spent 3 days to ascent this climb. There’s a tricky V10 dyno section in the middle.
The successful repeat climb serves as a testament to Honnold and Caldwell's unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the world of climbing.
Adam Ondra Flashes 5.14d Route in Impressive Display of Climbing Skill
Renowned climber Adam Ondra recently achieved an impressive feat in Slovenia, as he successfully flashed a 5.14d route. Known for his exceptional climbing skills, Ondra's accomplishment is a testament to his dedication and prowess in the sport.
Renowned climber Adam Ondra recently achieved an impressive feat in Slovenia, as he successfully flashed a 5.14d route. Known for his exceptional climbing skills, Ondra's accomplishment is a testament to his dedication and prowess in the sport. The flash occurred during Ondra's visit to Slovenia, where he embarked on a challenging climbing journey. With his unrivaled technique and strength, he managed to navigate the demanding route flawlessly on his first attempt.
This remarkable feat highlights Ondra's ability to quickly analyze and conquer difficult routes. Flashing a 5.14d route is no small feat in the climbing world.
Ondra is considered by many the best sport route flasher/onsighter in the world. According to his 8a.nu, he has flashed two 5.14d routes and famously, one 5.15a – Supercrackinette 5.15a in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France. He’s also onsighted three 5.14d routes.
Ondra’s had a successful month of outdoor climbing in Slovakia, Croatia, and Slovenia. After making the first ascenst of Ratatouille 5.14d and Filantrop L2 5.14c in Slovakia late last month, he went on to FA B je to! 5.15b and To je to! 5.14b in Croatia. He then onsighted Inferno do Vrha 5.14b and Kingslayer 5.14b and FA’d Fantazija 5.15a in Slovenia.
Ondra's accomplishment in Slovenia adds to his long list of impressive climbing achievements. With numerous first ascents and world records under his belt, he continues to push the boundaries of what is considered possible in the climbing world. His dedication and relentless pursuit of excellence serve as an inspiration to climbers worldwide.
51 Year Old Climber Sets New Record on Classic North Carolina Linkup
Jason Bryant completed the Linville Crusher, one of the most iconic and sought-after linkups in the Southeast, in 4:32:02.
Jason Bryant completed the Linville Crusher, one of the most iconic and sought-after linkups in the Southeast, in 4:32:02.
Jason recently set a new record on the classic Linville Crusher linkup in North Carolina. The linkup is a challenging route that combines two popular climbing routes in the area - the Linville Gorge and the Sugar Mountain.
Elevation graph and aerial image of the route.
The Linville Crusher linkup is known for its difficulty and technicality, making it a coveted achievement among climbers. The route covers approximately 15 miles and involves a significant amount of elevation gain, making it a true test of endurance and skill. In order to complete the linkup, climbers must navigate a variety of terrains, including steep rock faces and rugged trails. The route requires climbers to utilize a combination of climbing techniques, including crack climbing, slab climbing, and chimney climbing.
The previous record for the Linville Crusher linkup was held by renowned climber Alex Honnold, who completed the route in a remarkable time of 4 hours and 22 minutes. However, the new record-breaking time is yet to be disclosed. The Linville Gorge and Sugar Mountain are both well-known destinations for climbers in North Carolina.
The Linville Gorge is a popular spot for trad climbing and offers a variety of challenging routes, while Sugar Mountain is famous for its bouldering opportunities. The Linville Crusher linkup provides climbers with a unique and exhilarating experience, showcasing the beauty and diversity of North Carolina's climbing terrain.
With its record-breaking ascent, this feat further solidifies the linkup's status as a must-do for experienced climbers seeking a challenge. As the climbing community eagerly awaits the announcement of the new record-breaking time, climbers are inspired to push their limits on this classic North Carolina linkup and strive for their own personal achievements.
Blind Climber Nicolas Moineau Sends 5.13b
In a remarkable display of determination and skill, blind climber Nicolas Moineau has successfully completed his first 5.13b with a repeat of Los Tacos de los dos rigolos at Saint-Géry.
In a remarkable display of determination and skill, blind climber Nicolas Moineau has successfully completed his first 5.13b with a repeat of Los Tacos de los dos rigolos at Saint-Géry.
Nicolas spent over a year projecting the route, memorising a sequence of 87 moves. He spent months working on the lower half, which is considered the crux of the climb.
In order to know his feet placement, Nicolas would tick the feet he found so his belayer could let him know when he was on the proper features. “The things specific to my blindness here were tickmarks in the first section up to the 4th QD precisely,” Mouineau said. “I marked three micro-feet for the belayer/guide. I ended up finding them almost without help but it reassured me that someone could tell me I was really putting my foot in the right place.”
Professional Climber Janja Garnbret Conquers New Base Line V14 with Speed
Janja Garnbret, a highly skilled professional climber, has demonstrated her exceptional talent by swiftly completing the challenging New Base Line V14 route. The difficulty level of this climb, which tests strength, technique, and endurance, is considered advanced even for top climbers.
Janja Garnbret, a highly skilled professional climber, has demonstrated her exceptional talent by swiftly completing the challenging New Base Line V14 route.
The difficulty level of this climb, which tests strength, technique, and endurance, is considered advanced even for top climbers. The New Base Line V14 is known for its demanding overhanging moves, requiring precision and agility.
However, Garnbret's remarkable climbing skills allowed her to navigate through the route with remarkable ease and efficiency. This accomplishment further solidifies her reputation as one of the best climbers in the world.
Garnbret's incredible speed in completing the New Base Line V14 showcases her mastery of the sport. Her ability to move quickly and flawlessly on the rock face sets her apart from her competitors. She makes difficult moves appear effortless, pushing the boundaries of what is thought to be possible in rock climbing.
Fans and fellow climbers eagerly anticipate Garnbret's next achievements, as she continues to push herself and redefine the limits of climbing. With her exceptional talent, determination, and focus, she is undoubtedly a force to be reckoned with in the climbing world.
Garnbret’s full Magic Wood trip ticklist:
New Base Line V14 (8B+)
Jack’s Broken Heart V11/12 (flash)
Left Hand of Darkness V11/12 (flash)
Massive Attack V12
Sofasurfer V11/12
Foxy Lady V11
Muttertag V11
Octopussy V11
Right Hand of Darkness V10/11
Unendliche Geschichte V10/11